Between me and the mountains, under the calm, blue surface, there was an ocean of mystery. A few times per hour, the surface would break with the flash of a humpback whale’s tale, or a quick glimpse of their humpback. Once, a baby whale and its mother made an appearance close the coastline. Each time they revealed themselves, the atmosphere on the boat would shift and everyone grabbed their camera or binoculars and found their place alongside the railing, filling all the gaps to catch a view of these creatures. When we found a safe place to anchor and enter the ocean, I kept an eye out for wandering whales, but only heard their music ringing through the water.